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| newbe food plotter; ADVISE? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 13 2011, 11:30 PM (592 Views) | |
| lonetree | May 13 2011, 11:30 PM Post #1 |
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New member
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Anybody have any advise? just starting out in this endevaor selected my spot good cover, bedding and water, and am just brushing it out. Heavy work thick brush and trees in N.W Ontario. I going for about 1/2 to 3/4 of and acre, in heavy clay soil. The deer population is low to med but closer to the med area. I have most of the equipment I think I need Quad, small tractor discs plows harrows, and so far the ambition. It will be a slow spring and do not anticipate I will turn soil till end of June, buy the time it is brushed and stumped. any helpful advise? as to what I should plant hoping to hunt it in the fall but do not have too high of expectations for it, although I have an apple salt block out and have been putting out some cracked corn in a feeder and am getting some good sign. The deer seem to mostly be nocturnal.
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bigr
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May 14 2011, 07:33 PM Post #2 |
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First welcome Ph test on the soil would be a good idea ,,, look for 6 atleast , 7 would be better. Kill weeds ,,, if you can't use weed killer like round up then brassica would be a good first year plot. Brassicas are good at suppressing weed. Brassica seed 7 weeks before first frosts of the year. Once the frost hits them deer tipically drive to them hard until there gone. Cover around your plot is a good idea. Don't hunt over the plot if possible but if you do , ,, only at prime times for your plot activity. |
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| Renegade | May 16 2011, 02:23 PM Post #3 |
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Atikokan, Ontario
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Here is a good link to a lot of foodplotting info: http://www.outreachoutdoors.com/phpBB3/vie...php?f=33&t=3063 |
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| lonetree | May 17 2011, 09:03 PM Post #4 |
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New member
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Thanks for the advise, I appreciate any help I can get. Will the weed killer affect future crops? I have never used it ? Now all I need is a good excuse as to why I am so willing to go to my little bush clearing but not my wifes veggie patch! She just don't get it |
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bigr
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May 17 2011, 09:44 PM Post #5 |
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Not to be smart but ya,,,, You will have way less weed compitition. My wife gives me a hard time as well
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| vetjudy | Jul 13 2011, 12:05 PM Post #6 |
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Rookie
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Free Resources Here: Articles, Podcasts, resource links etc. http://www.diydeerfoodplots.com/resources.html |
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warningshot
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Jul 13 2011, 12:27 PM Post #7 |
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Advanced Hunter
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get the soil ready and ths year don't worry about the perfect plot ....soil tests...then lime as needed...plant something to keep out the weeds this year something like buckwheat, rye, brassiaca, clover etc |
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| vetjudy | Aug 9 2011, 07:17 PM Post #8 |
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Rookie
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I agree the first place to start is the soil test. Here is the bulk of an article I did on soil testing hopefully you find some of it useful ________________ There is simply no substitute for an accurate soil test before you engage in planting your food plot. If you skip this all-important test, a lot of time and money can be wasted. Soil types and nutrient content can have considerable variation from one region to another. There are often several different soil types on the same piece of property. Knowing the proper make up of your soil allows you to choose the right amendments, to get soil conditions closer to the ideal. It also allows for proper plant selection. Healthy plants are more resistant to the stress and disease created by inappropriate moisture conditions, grazing density, and weed competition. There are certain soil conditions which are not conducive to healthy growth of food plot plants. Soil amendments may be necessary to ensure proper pH and nutrient balance. Without this balance, optimum growth and production cannot be achieved. Soil testing is a valuable tool to determine if any pre-seeding soil treatments are required. Most experienced food plot growers recommend soil testing every 1 to 2 years, depending on their planting strategy. Importance of pH A pH of 7 is considered neutral and is ideal for growing most crops. Most plants used in food plots grow well in loam or sandy loam soils, with pH of 6.5 to 7.5. If a plant is sensitive to pH, even a small drop from 7 to 6.5 can change the soil conditions from ideal to adequate. Acidic soils are more common than neutral soils, where there is adequate rainfall and where nitrogen fertilization takes place. Lower pH or acidic soils are less suitable for growing most food plot plants. In fact, when pH is low there is decreased bacterial activity in the soil. This creates a situation where soil nutrients become fixed in the soil and are less available for plant growth. The further the deviation from neutral in either direction, the greater the impact on soil fertility. Without proper pH balance, investment in fertilizer and seed may be wasted. Soil pH Effects on Lime and Fertilizer Costs If you are planting legumes: 1.The optimum pH of the soil should be 6.5 to 7.0. 2.Phosphorus (P) should be between 30-50 ppm, with optimum being closer to 50. 3.Potassium (K) should be 100-200 ppm, with the higher level being closer to 200. If these basic fertility requirements are not met, yields will be decreased. If the soil pH is too low, more N fertilization is required to make up for lack of bacterial nitrogen fixation. If soil pH is optimal, then additional nitrogen is generally not recommended for legumes, as this may just stimulate competitive weed and grass growth. If you are planting grasses: 1.The optimum pH of the soil should be 6.0 to 6.5. 2.Phosphorus (P) should be between 30 -50 ppm. 3.Potassium (K) should be 100-200 ppm. If you are growing grasses, nitrogen may not be needed, depending on what was grown recently in your plotting area. If legumes were recently grown, additional nitrogen may not be required. Even when grasses are planted, low soil pH (outside the optimum) will increase the need for nitrogen and potentially decrease growth rates. This could increase the probability that native weeds and grasses will overtake your plot. Lime additions are cheaper than fertilizer, and bringing up the soil pH will help you maximize the natural ability of legumes to produce their own nitrogen. A typical application of 2 tons of lime/acre would cost about 1/5th the price of fertilizer. When using seed mixes, fertilizer costs can be significant - with some recommendations being as high as 150 to 300lbs/acre. Correcting soil pH will help you reduce these costs. (1) Soil pH Effects on Herbicide Performance Soil pH can also impact herbicide effectiveness. Some herbicides become bound to the soil when pH is low. Higher doses may be necessary to get the same level of weed control. This high rate of herbicide residue in the soil may become detrimental at the next seeding round. If you were to apply pre-seeding lime treatments, the sudden release of the previously applied chemical (herbicide) may weaken or kill your seedlings. (1) Soil pH Effects on Calcium and Magnesium Availability Legumes have a high requirement for both of these nutrients. Calcium and magnesium are supplied in the form of limestone. If the pH is low, the availability of these nutrients is decreased. Soil tests showing less than 60 ppm Mg is considered deficient in Mg, and limestone with Mg should be used to build the soil up. Home pH Test Kits There simple test kits available for pH evaluation. They can be helpful with respect to evaluation of pH. Although this measurement is important it is only a small part of the entire story. Soil tests evaluate a number of different elements within the soil. A complete soil test will give you information on the pH, organic matter content, and macro nutrients such as phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and nitrogen (in some cases). Common Macro Nutrients in Soil Soil Nitrogen Non-legume crops obtain nitrogen from three sources: 1.Nitrogen stored in the soil at the time of planting. 2.Nitrogen released by the soil during the growing season (from soil organic matter, manure and crop residues). 3.Fertilizer nitrogen. Nitrogen levels may or may not be given in a routine soil test, as this nutrient is very labile and the levels change throughout the growing season. For measured nitrogen levels to be accurate, they are often tested when the crop has its highest demand for nitrogen. There are “in season” nitrogen tests available in most labs if you need them. An economic response to nitrogen is seldom obtained on soils testing high in available nitrogen, but rates of 100 lb/ac or more may be profitable on soils testing low in available nitrogen. (9) Weeds lower the yield potential of a crop and compete for nitrogen fertilizer that has been applied. Higher nitrogen application rates are not profitable when weed competition is severe. Weed control prior to seeding is your best protection against wasting expensive fertilizer. (9) When you use manure as a fertilizer, it will increase both P and K while increasing the Nitrogen. Excessive use of manure may cause P and K levels to increase in a soil, and they can become toxic. Soil testing helps to evaluate these elements. Soil Sulphur Some Gray Wooded and Dark Gray Wooded soils and well drained Black soils are deficient in sulphur. Sulphur deficiency is not common on Brown and Dark Brown soils. Deficiencies seldom occur in crops grown on fallow. Legume crops and cereal crops that have been well-fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer commonly require sulphur fertilization. Sulphur requirements of rape and legumes are greater than those of cereals. Sulphur fertilization is inexpensive, owing to the relatively low rate of application required (10-30 lb/ac). If your soil is deficient, supplying sulphur can provide very high returns. (9) Soil Phosphorus Unlike nitrogen, available phosphorus (P) levels tend to be characteristic of individual fields or soil types, and do not vary widely from year to year due to previous management. The rate of phosphorus required will depend on several aspects: •Available phosphorus level of the field. •Phosphorus requirement of the crop to be grown. •Growing conditions. Cool, wet conditions early in the growing season enhance the response to phosphorus fertilizer. Application of phosphorus fertilizer often results in earlier and more uniform maturity, which is important in northern regions where the growing seasons are shorter. Favorable response can be obtained when 10 to 15 lb/ac of phosphate is added, even on soils testing moderately high. On soils testing low in phosphorus, most of the response is achieved at 40 to 50 lb/ac.(2) On soils that are very deficient in phosphorus, such as eroded hilltops, a single plow-down application of 100 to 200 lb/ac may be beneficial, in addition to normal annual applications. Micro Nutrients in Soil Soil testing can also provide levels of micro nutrients such as copper, zinc, iron, manganese, aluminum and lead. Micro nutrient deficiencies tend to be associated with particular soil types, growing conditions and crops. Generally, routine use of micro nutrient fertilizers is not recommended. These nutrients are best applied when deficiencies have been documented through soil testing. Some examples of micro nutrient deficiencies are: 1.Manganese deficiency in oats under cold, wet soil conditions. 2.Boron deficiency in canola and alfalfa on a few Gray Wooded and sandy soils. 3.Copper deficiency on organic and mineral soils. 4.Zinc deficiency on irrigated field beans. (62) Collecting a Useful Sample Even the best soil test is only as good as the samples you provide. Knowing what plants you intend to use prior to the soil test will result in the best recommendations for your plot. The best time to gather samples is at least 2-6 months before seedbed preparation. Testing in the fall allows adequate time for lime application prior to seeding. Testing in the spring allows for better assessment of macronutrients (N, P, K) following possible nutrient run off, depending on the amount of snow and moisture. Proper collection technique can ensure sound soil test results. Collect only samples that will indicate the conditions at the rooting depth of your plants. For most plants this is between 2 and 6 inches. If you have several smaller plots, it is recommended that you do each plot separately. When gathering samples, avoid areas where soil conditions deviate from the norm. This may include low spots, alkaline patches, and sodden regions. Including these regions in your sample can negatively affect the soil test, and result in recommendations that may be both difficult and unnecessary. If you are trying to correct problem areas, then soil samples should be obtained from these regions separately. A zigzag or random sampling pattern is generally recommended. Your goal is to gather a collection of 12-15 samples that represents an average of your soil. The samples should not represent more than 20 acres on level uniform landscapes, or 5 acres on hilly or highly variable land. Given that most food plots for deer are less than 5 acres, this is usually not a problem. Collection can be done with a soil sampling probe or a shovel. Special bags may be required by your soil testing lab, but the majority of submissions can be sent in a clean Ziploc type plastic bag. Contact your local soil testing lab to find out if they require anything specific for submission. Scrape away any surface thatch or debris in a representative area of the plot. Put the shovel in 6 inches (plow depth) in cultivated fields, so that you have a 1 inch slab of soil as near to vertical as possible. Then take your shovel and cut an inch wide section of this piece, so it contains a column of soil about 1 inch to 2 inches thick and includes the soil ranging from shallow to deep within in the column. Combine and mix all the samples together from a single plot area using a clean bucket; one without residue of detergent, fertilizer, or nutrients. Once mixed, it is only necessary to send in a cup or so of soil for testing purposes. When sampling in no till areas, take a 6 inch deep sample for lime and fertilizer recommendations, and a separate sample at 2 inch depth to monitor surface acidity. The samples should be dry, but excessive temperatures are not recommended. Do not leave soil exposed to prolonged periods of sunlight or heat, and do not use a microwave. Filling Out the Paper Work There is usually paperwork to be filled out which requires some historical information about what has been grown in the past, as well as what you are planning to plant now. If you know in advance what you are going to plant, noting it prior to the soil test allows the lab to make the best recommendations for that plant’s specific needs when compared to your soil. Ideally, plant selection should be done first. There are instances where soil testing is done prior to plant selection. When you are new to food plots, you may choose to get your first soil sample done without knowing what you are going to plant. This is especially true if your plot location is in an area that has never been used for cultivated crops. This is still a reasonable plan. Once you are armed with the analysis, you can significantly narrow down your options for plant choices. You may even find that the soil is unsuitable without significant amendments for any kind of cultivated crop to grow well. Places where soil amendments are either impractical or impossible may require analysis prior to plant selection. This will prevent you from wasting time and money putting in No-Plow seeds that won’t grow well. In unusual situations, you may need to contact the local agriculture office and ask for additional consultation, and give them the soil tests and what your new choice of plant is. They are usually very helpful in giving you the information to adjust your previous recommendations. If you want to select plants before the soil test but have not chosen yet, here are some general hints that you may find helpful. •Most food plot fertilizer and soil amendments can be based off of either a clover or clover/ grass pasture crop. This will not be exact, but it should be close for most of the plot forage choices we generally use. •Pick one of the more commonly used plants for either fall or spring/summer planting. •Ideally it would be something not available in the immediate area. This means that if the farmer next to you has 50 acres of corn, this would not be an ideal choice for you. •Clovers (or clover blends), small (wheat, oats, rye) and large grains (soybeans, peas, corn) and brassicas are the most common choices people often start with. Where to Send Samples We have three resources for soil sample submissions or information at this time. 1. www.csrees.usda.gov When you get to this page, look for the button on the lower right that says “local extension office” - it will take you to the map of the U.S. where you can select your state. 2.www.whitetailinstitute.com/info/soil/ The Whitetail Institute offers a soil testing service that is cost effective. 3.www.certifiedorganic.bc.ca/rcbtoa/services/soil-testing-services.html For Canadians and Americans: Follow this link to soil and water testing services available to Canadian and American farmers. American listings are below Canadian listings on this page. Interpretation of Fertilizer and Liming Recommendations Now that you have the test results back from the lab, you need to decipher them. Liming and pH: The pH is a measure of how acidic the soil is. The value will be given on a scale of 1-14 (with 7 being neutral). The more acidic the soil, the lower the number is. The most important point here is that a single number change in either direction represents a 10 fold change in acidity. So therefore pH = 6 is 10 times more acidic than 7, but a pH of 5 is 100X more acidic than a pH of 7. I am sure you can appreciate how the soil conditions are vastly different with only a small change in pH. When applying lime (to increase the pH of soil) there are several types to choose from. The most commonly used are calcitic limestone, dolomitic limestone, or basic slag. If the test recommends 2 tons of lime, then you can use 2 tons of calcitic limestone, 1.8 tons of dolomitic limestone, or 3.3 tons of basic slag. It is generally understood that, in acidic soils, the minimum amount of lime to spread is 2 ton/acre since this application rate will not overdo it, and it is generally the most economical volume for the small plot owner. If more than 4 tons/acre is called for then the application should be split, with half of the additive being plowed in, and the rest worked into the surface with finer tillage. (62) Ideally lime should be applied more than 5 to 6 months prior to planting, so it will have time to impact the soil conditions. The time frame can be shorter, but the best advantages are achieved by waiting. It is through direct particle-to-particle contact that this application works, so just throwing it on top has no value - it does not work, as rain runs it through the soil. Also, putting it too deep has no value either. Calculating Fertilizer Rates There are a large number of different fertilizers available. The fertilizer analysis is written in the following format on the bag: N-P-K. For example: A 100 lb bag of 20-20-20 would have 20% N, 20% P, and 20% K. Based on the weight of the bag (100lbs) , there would be 20 lbs of each component in the bag. The fertilizer percentages don’t add up to 100% because there are fillers present. You can manually calculate the fertilizer rates using the following formula if you start with a 100 lb fertilizer bag. Recommended application rate per acre/fertilizer analysis number on bag X 100 = fertilizer rate. If you do manual calculations based on your soil test recommendations, you will quickly notice that in many cases if you calculate the fertilizer rate of N /acre, then the amount of P and K delivered may be incorrect, depending on which fertilizer you are using. My best recommendation for proper fertilizer application rates is to take your soil test to your local fertilizer supplier, and let them help you determine which fertilizer mixture is closest to what you need or have them custom mix one for you. Here is a resource for fertilizer selection. It is a Canadian website, but most of the fertilizers are available in both the United States and Canada. (9) http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$departme...f/all/agdex3904 Some General Guidelines Regarding Fertilizer Application Issues In general, the time to apply fertilizers is as close as possible to the time that plants need the nutrient. Loss of nutrients increases with time. In northern climates, surface applications of chemical fertilizer or manure in the fall or winter are not recommended without incorporation. This is because the removal of nutrients through snow melt water is high. Moist but not wet soil is most effective for fertilizer applications. (23) Applications can be done spring or fall but depending on early spring conditions, significant losses of fertilizer value can result. Generally, crops require the greatest amounts of nutrients at the times of fastest growth and seed production. If applied too early in the season, some nutrients may be transported out of the root zone with runoff or infiltrating water, prior to the time of peak demand. Post-seeding treatments and slow-release products offer some alternatives to traditional applications at the time of seeding. (47) Nitrogen Nitrogen fertilizers are very soluble and move readily in moist soil. You do not need to place the fertilizer close to the seed to get good fertilization. For most food plots, broadcasting applications work well. If you are planning on placing fertilizer directly with the seed while planting, be careful, as the rate at which you can apply fertilizer that close to the seed is affected by crop type, soil moisture, soil type, fertilizer type, and row spacing. Incorrect application with the seed can lead to crop failure. It is best to use nitrogen close to seeding time, or distribute early in rapid growth phases when broadcasting. (25) Nitrogen fertilizer sources are ammonium nitrate (34-0-0), ammonium sulphate (21-0-0-24S; 20-0-0-24S and 19-3-0-22S), urea (46-0-0), anhydrous ammonia (82-0-0), urea - ammonium sulphate (34-0-0-11S), urea - ammonium nitrate solutions (28-0-0), and acid nitrogen solutions (24-6-0-4S and 26 0 0 6S). Phosphate Phosphates do not move readily in soil, which means the ideal placement is usually close to the developing seedlings. Broadcasting is less effective than banding or seed row applications, and therefore should be 2 to 4 times the rate of application for these methods. On very deficient soils, application should be banded or incorporated prior to seeding perennial forages. When broadcasting phosphates, you may notice the response is better in the second year. Applications can be done in spring or fall, because of the relatively stable nature of the compound in soil. (25) Phosphorus fertilizer sources include monoammonium phosphate (11-51-0, 12-51-0 and 11-55-00), diammonium phosphate (18-46-0), monocalcium phosphate or triple super phosphate (0-45-0), ammonium polyphosphate solution (10 34 0), liquid suspensions made from monoammonium phosphate (10-30-0) and acid solutions made from phosphoric acid and urea (0-34-0-4S). Potassium Potassium moves into the soil for distribution more easily than phosphorus,, but banding or drilling in with the seed is still superior to broadcasting. Since most food plot owners are limited to broadcast applications the rates are generally twice that required when drilling is used. Applications can be done fall or spring. (25) The most common potassium fertilizer source is muriate of potash (0-0-60 or 0 0-62). Sulphur Sulphur in the sulphate form moves readily in moist soils, and therefore broadcast applications work well for food plots. Banding and drill-in applications can also be used. Common sulphur fertilizer sources are ammonium sulphate (21-0-0-24S, 20-0-0-24S and 19-3-0-22S), urea-ammonium sulphate (34-0-0-11S), ammonium phosphate-sulphate (16-20-0-14S and 17-20-0-15S), sulphur bentonite (90% S) and gypsum (CaSO4, 2H2O). |
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baydog
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Aug 10 2011, 09:14 AM Post #9 |
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Great info, thanks! |
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Anybody have any advise? just starting out in this endevaor selected my spot good cover, bedding and water, and am just brushing it out. Heavy work thick brush and trees in N.W Ontario. I going for about 1/2 to 3/4 of and acre, in heavy clay soil. The deer population is low to med but closer to the med area. I have most of the equipment I think I need Quad, small tractor discs plows harrows, and so far the ambition. It will be a slow spring and do not anticipate I will turn soil till end of June, buy the time it is brushed and stumped. any helpful advise? as to what I should plant hoping to hunt it in the fall but do not have too high of expectations for it, although I have an apple salt block out and have been putting out some cracked corn in a feeder and am getting some good sign. The deer seem to mostly be nocturnal.








2:33 PM Jul 11