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| Got my emanage today; RS200 3SGE | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 30 2004, 08:08 AM (1,464 Views) | |
| Sirnixalot | Sep 30 2004, 08:08 AM Post #1 |
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Paid-up Member
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Just cleared it from customs ![]() My car has suffered some damage fromt he hurricane (head lights, foglights are flooded and the alternator is toast) but i am ordering all of what i need through Matt. Side note - if anyone has a working alternator i would love to buy it from you Ive got the wiring info which was graciously provided by forum member Twincams (thanks buddy). I wont be attempting the install until insurance have sorted me out. But as soon as i do the install ill do a write up with pix. |
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| Sirnixalot | Sep 30 2004, 10:26 AM Post #2 |
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Twincams...need some more help :ph43r: the rotary switches that set the number of cylinders and the MAF type...i dont have the altezza settings...i see the settings for the MR2's 3SGTE but i know that we use a different wiring setup than they do. i hope you can help
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| Sirnixalot | Sep 30 2004, 12:32 PM Post #3 |
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so im an inpatient bastard i wired everything up, just waiting to get the info i need from twin cams to set up the base emanage settings. Once the alternator arrives its tuning time ![]() ![]() I have the Emanage itself in the glove box with the wires coming out the side of it. Here you can see 3 out of the 4 mounting screws (lost one :() |
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| Sirnixalot | Sep 30 2004, 12:32 PM Post #4 |
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![]() The emanage sitting in its new home ![]() |
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| Sirnixalot | Sep 30 2004, 12:33 PM Post #5 |
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![]() Ran the wires through the hole for the stock wiring harness. The emanage harness' are just long enough to reach the ecu if the main unit is mounted in the glove box. |
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| Sirnixalot | Sep 30 2004, 12:33 PM Post #6 |
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![]() Another shot of where the wires went through the fire wall |
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| Sirnixalot | Sep 30 2004, 12:33 PM Post #7 |
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![]() Pic of the wires running to the ECU box. I cut out some of the cover to allow the wires to pass through. |
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| ?uestlove | Sep 30 2004, 03:25 PM Post #8 |
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Sleeper
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Cool man, you should see a good improvment!! Glad to hear your ok man! off topic, but where abouts is Cayman ISlands? West Indies? GO THE WINDIES! |
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Toyota Power | |
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| RS200AT | Sep 30 2004, 06:46 PM Post #9 |
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Lowered
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I'll go get him. *Update* He'll be logging in soon. |
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| Twincams | Sep 30 2004, 07:03 PM Post #10 |
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hi sirnixalot, sorry to hear about de damage, but glad to hear u are alright juz got RS200AT's msg... please gimme an hour from now to scan and post the pix here... c ya lata
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| RS200AT | Sep 30 2004, 07:08 PM Post #11 |
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Lowered
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He need an alternator too. Wonder if Guan has a spare lying around for cheap!! |
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| Twincams | Sep 30 2004, 10:07 PM Post #12 |
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will ask him lata...=) hey sirnixalot, sorry, the pics didnt turn out clearly enuff to see the details... anyway, i'll try to describe as best as i can.... there are 2 impt things u need to manually set b4 turning on the unit:- 1) the rotary switches 2) the jumper settings found on the main circuit board for the rotary switches, please turn the knobs:- knob#1 = 4 knob#2 = 2 knob#3 = 0 ie. the knobs should read 4,2,0 from knobs 1 to 3, respectively.... for the jumper switches, u MUST identify every single jumper switch from JP1 to JP7 on the circuit board first so as not to get confused by the prints on the board. JP1 - bridge/short pins 1 AND 2 JP2 - bridge/short pins 2 AND 3 JP3 - bridge/short pins 1 AND 2 JP4 - DO NOT BRIDGE/SHORT(ie. leave ONLY 1 hole of the black bridging/shorting connector plugged into 1 of the pins while the other hole hangs arnd unplugged) JP5 - DO NOT BRIDGE/SHORT(ie. leave ONLY 1 hole of the black bridging/shorting connector plugged into 1 of the pins while the other hole hangs arnd unplugged) JP6 - DO NOT BRIDGE/SHORT(ie. leave ONLY 1 hole of the black bridging/shorting connector plugged into 1 of the pins while the other hole hangs arnd unplugged) JP7 - bridge/short pins 1 AND 2 with all these settings done, u shld be able to get the unit started. be very careful with ur ignition wiring because 1 out of every 2 attempts is wrong ignition wiring such that the car cannot start and complications might well follow... if ur ignition wiring is spot on, the car will crank up immediately as usual(provided all the mappings are set to 0). leave the car running for at least 5 mins, or try and drive around NEAR ur home, please ....just to make sure the unit has been wired in correctly, coz sumtimes the ignition problems wont surface until sometime later....i really would suggest that u follow the pinouts from the diagrams provided(do u have them? lemme know if not) instead of the wire colours.... one very obvious mistake is to connect the CH#numerical to the equivalent Cyl#numerical(yes, tatz wat silly me did initially, haha).... hope this helps, and have fun tuning!!! :lol: |
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| Sirnixalot | Oct 1 2004, 01:35 AM Post #13 |
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I followed the wiring diagrams to the T. I am 100% certain that my ignition wiring is correct. I used the following orange wires as #1 black stripe ignition signal in white stripe ignition signal out Dark blue wires as #2 black stripe ignition signal in white stripe ignition signal out Yellow wires as #3 black stripe ignition signal in white stripe ignition signal out Light blue wires as #4 black stripe ignition signal in white stripe ignition signal out I haven't touched the jumper settings. But i will print this out and make sure my jumper settings correspond with yours. As for the tuning. A friend of mine with a wideband will be helping me tune it. Problem is finding a decent road to tune it on now. If you guys could find an alternator around the place that works you would help save me quite a bit of money. If not i need to get it anyway. Thanks for the help so far guys i couldnt have done this without you
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| Twincams | Oct 1 2004, 03:09 AM Post #14 |
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will let u know by friday if my mech(also RS200AT's mech) has a spare one lying around.... for tuning, please do keep in mind that for part throttling up to 50%, the OEM ECU has a closed loop target a/f ratio of about 14.7, so it's no point forcing the ratio to the 12-13 range coz it's gonna revert after sometime, even though that range of ratios gives good power/torque.... my suggestion is to bring back the ratios such the ECU begins to run closed loop again. that's where u will get very good efficiency and no retarding of ignition from the OEM ecu. just my views
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| Sirnixalot | Oct 1 2004, 03:45 AM Post #15 |
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this is good info to have. If you have the maps from your NA dyno i would love tog et my paws on those for a decent baseline but you've helped TONS as it is so i can figure out the rest on my own.fingers are crossed for that alternator
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| RS200AT | Oct 1 2004, 04:58 AM Post #16 |
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Lowered
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That mech of ours went through 4 motors, so he should have one lying around. :lol: TWINCAMS, can you also ask Guan if a ST205 (3S-GTE) motor will bolt on to our 6MT? Thanks. |
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| Sirnixalot | Oct 1 2004, 10:27 AM Post #17 |
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checked the jumper settings. they are fine as is...they match your settings
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| Sirnixalot | Oct 2 2004, 05:42 AM Post #18 |
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any word on that alternator
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| Twincams | Oct 2 2004, 05:55 AM Post #19 |
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Sirnixalot, i regret to inform you that the spare alternator which my mech has is not working... it's actually taken from a smashed half-cut, and unfortunately he couldn't get it to work... as for the NA dyno-tuned maps, i also lost them cos i didn't have personal access to the software and cable until i came back to NA from turbo, sorry about that... right now, i am running cold air induction + 4-1 racing headers, so the maps will probably not fit your setup unless we are running similiar stuff... have you tried starting the car with the E-manage plugged in? RS200AT, aiyah, read your message too late. but it's ok, i'm going back to see him tomorrow morning
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checked the jumper settings. they are fine as is...they match your settings
1:04 PM Jul 11