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Multiple Fault Codes; Gremlins Part 2?!?!?
Topic Started: Nov 6 2008, 12:30 PM (3,640 Views)
xnickx
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Long story short, last night after driving to my friends car is 100%, nothing wrong.

On way back, tried to start the car and heard a pop, looked under the bonnet and the 40A main fuse had blown, happened to have a spare, and blows as soon as I turn my key.

Thats ok, I've driven my car in the past without the 40A Main fuse if I can get it started, so ok, kick start, car fires on, but idles at 2000rpm.

Everytime I try to give it gas it actually tries to stall.
Eventually got it rolling, and jerks like hell, throttle opening randomly and closing randomly. Without touching the throttle it would be under full throttle and back to nothing about 4/5 times within a minute.

Engine check light comes on, and TRC light starts flashing and feels as though car went into limp mode, although I could still rev to above 5000rpm (well the car randomly did)

Got the tester from work today to pull up fault codes and got the following codes:

P0100 - air flow meter circuit
P0110 - intake air temperature circuit
P0120 - throttle position sensor circuit
P1120 - accelerator position sensor circuit
P1121 - accelerator position sensor range/performance problem
P1301 - Ignition signal 1
P1306 - Ignition signal 2
P1311 - Ignition signal 3
P1316 - Ignition signal 4

Where the hell so I start!!!

I've cleared the codes, will head home tonight and replace the fuse and will see how it goes (wont have the tester with me again though...)

Anyone out there have any ideas?
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Leiden
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Have you checked your melted wiring?

I'd say check all the wiring around your turbo for a start, damn yours must be producing some heat, I've had no worries with just the factory shield that runs around the battery and firewall..

I'd say invest in some fiberglass wrap for your dump pipe to get those temperatures down,

P1301 is Ignition signal 1,
P1306 is Ignition signal 2,
P1311 is Ignition signal 3,
P1316 is Ignition signal 4,

Could be an intermittent fault, a wire arcing on something causing tempoary shorts?
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xnickx
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Wrapped dump pipe already.

Check loom around there and was all ok.

Need to investigate further.

But being an electrical fault like this I may just bring it into the dealership and get them to sort it out eh...
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Leiden
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Those extra codes are ignition signal codes,

Did you check each individual wire, it may look fine from the outside, but the insulation could have been damaged or thinned by melting fusing it to another wire.
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Distrb
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I agree with leiden here. first port of call would be that bunch of wires that you melted and make sure each has a complete circuit.

then go after those other parts that have related fault codes. get your wiring diagrams and find out where each goes to and check with a multimeter for broken wires etc.

Rather you than me boss, i hate electrics :angry:
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xnickx
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Yeah checked all wires behind the turbo, every single one are all ok.

Got a air flow meter in my hand to test tonight.

Gonna try get another throttle body for me to try soon too.
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Leiden
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Ok,

So I went out and pulled the 40A fuse, startor wont engage, all dash lights ok. Plugged the fuse in and started the car then pulled it again.

Car ran absolutely fine, apart from my VVTi solenoid code and O2 code there were no others to report.

All electrics worked fine without the 40A fuse apart from:

High and Low Beam
Startor / Solenoid

Heater, Window Wipers, Radio, Electric Windows, Mirrors, Tail Lights, Indicators, Dash Lights, etc all worked as normal...

Funnily enough, the drivers side headlight wiring runs right behind the dump pipe/turbo, the other larger cable is just an earth for the startor im pretty sure. Rest of the wires apear to go to the ABS motor, and possibly into the cabin but I'm not 100% sure about that one...

The Throttle position sensor runs of the 5V feed from the ECU, not sure about the AFM that's most likely 12V. Would explain the erratic idle...

Engine control has nothing to do with the 40A main fuse accoding to a wiring diagram I have sitting in front of me..

Could it be your HID ballast that got water in it, have you tried unplugging the headlights?

Also, did the fuse only blow when the key was turned to the ON position? Did it blow if you just turned the headlights on without the key?
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xnickx
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Will test again tonight, but was pretty sure the lights wern't on when I tested it.

Could be water inside the HID ballast as it was raining a bit last night..

Yeah only high and lows dont work everything else seemed to be ok
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Leiden
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After thinking about it for a little while longer I'd suggest you check your ECU and more likely that Emanage Blue wired into it,

EMB intercepts the airflow signal, and also runs a feed from the TPS...

Anyway you can disconnect the EMB so it runs entirely of the factory ecu? Take it for a lil drive (wastegate open) and see how she goes,

Did the fuse pop when you turned the key to the Start position? If so I'd check the wire running to the solenoid (which is a large relay basically).
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Leiden
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Also something to note,

Without the TPS connected, engine idles fine but throttle doesnt work unless pushed about 50% down (when the mechanical over-ride kicks in)

Same goes for the TPS sensor on the Fly-By-Wire side of the Throttle Body, engine idles, no throttle unless pushed more than 50%

Same thing with both disconnected,

With airflow meter disconnected engine just idles up and dies,

- - -

Have you tried letting it idle without the TPS sensors connected? What about manually testing the outputs with a multimeter? If your AFM wasnt working then your car wouldnt have idled very well, but I guess would explain stumbling when gasing the pedal..
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Leiden
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Postcount ++ LOL

Heres what to check and what you should expect with Ignition ON:

Airflow meter:

Black/Red to Yellow - Should be 12v with ignition on
Red to Yellow - Should be 1 - 1.5v idling, about 0.7v with ignition on and engine not running

Throttle Position Sensor:

Yellow/Green to Earth - Should be 0.4 - 1.5v with pedal released
Yellow/Green to Earth - Should be 3.2 - 4.8v with pedal depressed
Red/Blue to Earth - Should be 2.0 - 2.9v with pedal released
Red/Blue to Earth - Should be 4.7 - 5.1v with pedal depressed

Acceleration Position Sensor:

Green/Blue to Earth - Should be 0.3 - 0.9v with pedal released
Green/Blue to Earth - Should be 3.2 - 4.8v with pedal depressed
Blue/White to Earth - Should be 1.8 - 2.7v with pedal released
Blue/White to Earth - Should be 4.7 - 5.1v with pedal depressed
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Soiled Altezza
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Leiden,Nov 6 2008
02:28 PM
Postcount ++ LOL

Heres what to check and what you should expect with Ignition ON:

Airflow meter:

Black/Red to Yellow - Should be 12v with ignition on
Red to Yellow - Should be 1 - 1.5v idling, about 0.7v with ignition on and engine not running

Throttle Position Sensor:

Yellow/Green to Earth - Should be 0.4 - 1.5v with pedal released
Yellow/Green to Earth - Should be 3.2 - 4.8v with pedal depressed
Red/Blue to Earth - Should be 2.0 - 2.9v with pedal released
Red/Blue to Earth - Should be 4.7 - 5.1v with pedal depressed

Acceleration Position Sensor:

Green/Blue to Earth - Should be 0.3 - 0.9v with pedal released
Green/Blue to Earth - Should be 3.2 - 4.8v with pedal depressed
Blue/White to Earth - Should be 1.8 - 2.7v with pedal released
Blue/White to Earth - Should be 4.7 - 5.1v with pedal depressed

I have a spare factory ecu if you would like to try it bud, I had one do something similar after getting high voltage spikes which stuffed one ecu up and made it go nuts.
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xnickx
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Hmmmm I cant seem to find anything! Fustrating the f##k outta me!

Anyone wanna buy a blue SXE10!

Couldnt test have the voltages as the car would barely idle.

Checked all vacuum lines, all intercooler piping, all silicon joiners, cleaned the whole throttle body and all assorted sensors.

Tried the spare air flow sensor from work, all NADA!

Kept replacing the 40A Main fuses but it kept blowing out.
Disconnected the HIDs and it still kept blowing fuses.
Deffinatly not the lights then!


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alimac
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If it was an old school carbied car like my esky, the high idle coupled with the stalling when you give it gas would make me think it was running too rich.
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Leiden
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xnickx,Nov 6 2008
07:56 PM
Hmmmm I cant seem to find anything! Fustrating the f##k outta me!

Anyone wanna buy a blue SXE10!

Couldnt test have the voltages as the car would barely idle.

Checked all vacuum lines, all intercooler piping, all silicon joiners, cleaned the whole throttle body and all assorted sensors.

Tried the spare air flow sensor from work, all NADA!

Kept replacing the 40A Main fuses but it kept blowing out.
Disconnected the HIDs and it still kept blowing fuses.
Deffinatly not the lights then!

Those voltages I posted above should be taken with the ignition in the ON position and the engine not running, at least for the TPS sensors, you can check that the AFM is putting out around 0.7v but you tried another unit so that should be fine..

Did the fuse blow when you turned the key on? Was it ACC, ON, or Start that blew the fuse?

If it was Start then you could try pulling the startor relay, then at least you'd know it would be something to do with the startor circuit in that case,

I guess the only other options would be trying another ECU, or disconnecting the Emanage and running just the factory ecu and see if that changes anything?

I'm a bit suspicious of the ECU at this stage...
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Only when starting it would blow it.

Yeah I guess its got something to do with the starter trigger.

Will get more fuses and try disconnecting the EMB during the weekend.

Also reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for half an hour...

Also gonna try another throttle body from the wreckers tomorrow
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xnickx
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Also when the car was running utter uber crap, AF was running pretty rich...

And car had started to miss every now and then too, possibly something to do with the coils and the IGT signal?

Got car started before, but when it died white smoke came out of the throttle body (after I took off the inlet pipe)
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Leiden
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Ok, so if it doesnt blow with the relay unplugged then the Battery->Key->Startor Relay wiring is fine, which would then mean you have a short in the wire from the relay to the solenoid which shouldnt be too hard to trace,

Otherwise if it still blows its most likely the wiring running to the key circuit, you could test it by unplugging the ignition and finding the feed from the Start position to the relay, and testing that for a short against chassis earth,

Try the throttle body and if that doesnt fix it then start looking at the Emanage, and then the factory ecu,

A bummer your having all these problems :(

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xnickx
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Gonna try the throttle body and EMB tomorrow night.

And if that doesnt work I'll start tracing wires (again)...

Quite fed up actually, considering fixing it and just getting something else... ... .. This time for real, cant deal with all these hassles anymore
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Leiden
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I'll swap you mine if you cant work it out...

LOL.

Probably not an issue... but Caldina injectors are only 13.6 ohms, 3S-GE ones are 14 ohms...

Maybe it overheated and cooked something?

And aparently the caldina ones are rated at 540...?
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-DC-
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hey nick, if you're really stuck, hit up my mate brendan, he's an auto sparky, works in town, could probably look into it for ya if he's not too busy :) I'll txt u his number~
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xnickx
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Yeah someone else mentioned the injectors, still got the stocko ones may plug them back in too.
Less resistance would mean they work at less strain though yes?

Yeah I'll be in touch if I cant sort it out LOL!

Cheers David got your text :)
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HOT2XS
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Hey Nick. Real sorry to hear about the problems with your car. I don't know much about Altezza's, but I do know a little bit about wiring (a little bit). It sounds like something is shorting out, or not earthing out. I have had one of my ignition coils go (which alot of us have by the sounds) and so has the 'hand-brake' in her car. And both cars ran like crap when they went. We all seem to agree that your problem is electrical. Have you checked all four ignition coils? When my single one went, it actually blew the top off it. You may have more than one gone (if it is the coils). DC's mate the auto-sparky could be the go. Hang in there bud :-)
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xnickx
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Argh I'm over the car!

Gonna flick it down to work on Monday and see whats up, depending how bad the problem is perhaps its time ti get another car...

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Barryogen
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if you are going to remove the turbo kit before selling it, I may be keen. :)
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