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| *updates!* Rebuilding The 3sge For Boost; Killed it standard, Stronger Round 2! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 7 2009, 03:19 PM (4,568 Views) | |
| Muzza | Feb 17 2009, 07:19 PM Post #76 |
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Hamilton
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Dude. If you go cutting corners by using second rings and bearings your going to be rebuilding the engine. It's going to cost you more in the long run.Someone said earlier "Do it once Do it right" |
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Muzza HKS RS Induction. Tom's lightened flywheel,TRD Clutch,TRD Clutch Cover Apexi SAFCII,Gizzmo Shiftlight-Launch conntroller,Pivot speedmetre-x Cusco Front Strutbrace Mintex M116 Brakepads | |
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| Leiden | Feb 17 2009, 07:32 PM Post #77 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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Yea true, but I'd risk reusing rings if a new sets like $400
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| madaltezza | Feb 18 2009, 04:34 PM Post #78 |
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Sleeper
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good luck as muzza said do it once do it rigth |
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| Soiled Altezza | Feb 18 2009, 08:26 PM Post #79 |
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Agreed, even if you have to buy a cheap daily to run you around til you get the money and sort the Altezza out. It's worth taking the time and money to do it right. |
![]() Garage: http://altezza.dualzdesigns.com/viewcar.ph...wner=17&frmpg=0 | |
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| Leiden | Feb 20 2009, 05:34 PM Post #80 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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Yea good points, I think I get too excited to drive it again and rush a few things, but $400ish for a set of rings seems a little extreme, Might try ACL to see if they manifacture a set... Anyway been working on it today, just pulled the head and had a look, at first glance everything looks fine, no markings on the bores, valves look like they are sealing good, no marks where exhaust had been escaping from the gasket. Cant see any marks on the head/bore from the piston rocking. Camshaft bearing's all looked good, so hadn't worn from torqueing them too much. Did strip a bolt trying to get one out so had to drill the head off it ![]() On closer inspection the #4 piston isnt sitting centre in the bore like the rest, its hard up against the front facing side of the bore... what could be causing it to do that? Bent or Twisted Con-Rod? Bore looks nice and smooth, still has light hatching on it so its not scraping the bore! Thankfully... :ph43r: Heres some pics: ![]() Hardout appreciate any tips/comments you guys have, and where/what to look for next? Drop the sump? |
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| greeneyes | Feb 20 2009, 07:39 PM Post #81 |
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Targa Master
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Of course! We are waiting in terrible suspense!! ![]() Number 4's broken ring!! |
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The Girl's KE70- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ How NOT to build a rally car- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027...ld-a-rally-car/ | |
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| Leiden | Feb 20 2009, 08:25 PM Post #82 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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Just made another discovery!! At the bottom of #4's stroke right at BDC (Bottom Dead Center) the engine gets slightly harder to turn over and you can see the #4 piston rock towards the back of the motor! Then it gets easier again and the piston returns to its before position (Hard up against front of the bore). Also at TDC #4 is sitting slightly lower in the bore than #1 Piston...Strange... Could it be the bottom of the piston hitting the crank counterbalance? Would it do that with a broken ring or does that sound like a bent rod/wrist pin? |
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| madaltezza | Feb 20 2009, 09:11 PM Post #83 |
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Sleeper
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ok look at the close up of the head there has been some detashon that is the pitting and i say that you have done a big end on number 4 or have bent a rod or the crank is bent |
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| Leiden | Feb 20 2009, 09:32 PM Post #84 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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I'm hoping its a rod! I dont think its a bigend, I've heard alot of bigends on YouTube and they all sound alot different than mine. Like a bigend knocking changes rate and sound with rpm, and is usually noticable around 2500rpm's rather than over the entire rev range. Mine is a constant ticking that doesnt change with rpm, it stays perfectly constant in pitch unlike a bigend. A bent crank sounds pretty scary Please be rod, please be rod :rolleyes: Guess I will find out in due time, So that rough looking squish pad area on the head is actually pitting from detonation? I thought it was just casting marks? The counterbalance hitting the piston would make sense and explain those little flakes of metal/alu in the sump! |
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| greeneyes | Feb 21 2009, 10:43 AM Post #85 |
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Targa Master
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Sounds like rod- that would explain the ticking which is the piston flicking over from one side or the bore to the other just as you described. Odd tho'... what would bend a rod? I usually thought rev stresses or a major disaster like water in the bore or a valve dropping... |
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The Girl's KE70- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ How NOT to build a rally car- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027...ld-a-rally-car/ | |
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| madaltezza | Feb 21 2009, 11:30 AM Post #86 |
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Sleeper
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yer the pitting is from detonation |
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| Leiden | Feb 21 2009, 04:30 PM Post #87 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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I dont know if detonation could do it, maybe the constant pounding bent it out of shape or something, If my girlfriend lets me :rolleyes: I'll spend an hour or so and pull that piston out, |
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| turbo tezza | Feb 21 2009, 08:57 PM Post #88 |
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Sacked
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Yea detonation will bend rods. I bent 2 standard rods in the original engine. One was hardly noticable - but the other was pretty bad. That was on no.2 & 3 cylinders. 1st rebuild the skimmed 3s-gte pistons went in with standard rods, which were fine even after the pistons took a hammering. The Eagle rods in mine now shouldn't bend. Corey |
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Location: Christchurch....and got a job driving - yay!!! My Car build-up | |
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| Leiden | Feb 21 2009, 09:22 PM Post #89 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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Ok Guys... How the &*#$ do you get the sump tray off?? I've removed the 4x 14mm bolts, 8x 12mm bolts, 9x 5mm Hex bolts, as far as I can see theres nothing holding it to the motor apart from the TONS of seal packing, I tried prying it off at the rear of the sump pan and ended up breaking a small piece out of the sump pan at the back, luckily where the flywheel is so it wont leak oil...I've bent about 5 screw drivers trying to pry it either side of the rear of the thing and it still hasnt budged... Do I need to remove the gearbox too? Stupid mechanic and his over zealous seal packing :/ @Corey: Did you have to do anything to the pistons to make them fit? What did you mean by skimmed? Any work on the valve flycuts? |
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| madaltezza | Feb 21 2009, 11:34 PM Post #90 |
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Sleeper
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pull the mota out of the car for a start and there sum allen head blots in the back of the mota |
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| Leiden | Feb 22 2009, 12:54 AM Post #91 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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You mean the two allen bolts that are up in the back of the sump? I got those without removing the engine, Are there some more bolts inside the bell housing that need removing? Do I need to remove the gearbox? |
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| Leiden | Feb 22 2009, 06:14 PM Post #92 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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And the verdict is...Bent Rod! The piston & rings are still in good condition, apart from the small amount of material missing from the bottom where the counter balance was rubbing up against it... Bearings look good with no obvious damage, what do you guys think of the bearings? Think they look ok? Here's the pictures: ![]() Question: Since the piston & rings are ok would it be safe to reuse them making sure they go back into the same bore's as before or will I need to get new rings and have the bore's honed? Here's the plan if funds permit: ACL Bearings, New Engine Mounts, 2x Head Gasket's, 3SGTE Rods, Will leave the pistons they've held up this far so it looks like the Rods are the Beams weak link! Oh and guess what? The engine was just sitting in the engine bay, both of the engine mounts were broken completely! Imagine launching and the motor twisting, bet the exhaust was the only thing holding it in place :/ |
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| Soiled Altezza | Feb 22 2009, 06:59 PM Post #93 |
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Re-read your plan Don't forget the dyno tune either.
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![]() Garage: http://altezza.dualzdesigns.com/viewcar.ph...wner=17&frmpg=0 | |
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| Leiden | Feb 22 2009, 07:06 PM Post #94 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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Haha yea I will this time ![]() Good to know it's not too serious! Who was using 3SGTE rods in their motor with stock pistons? Need to know if ST185 Rods will fit, I can get another factory rod, but would prefer if it was a little stronger this time
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| turbo tezza | Feb 23 2009, 04:42 AM Post #95 |
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Sacked
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185 rods are fine. the length is the same as the other years. just make sure ur pistons are fine b4 re-using them. U don't want to have to do the exercise more that once if u can help it
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Location: Christchurch....and got a job driving - yay!!! My Car build-up | |
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| xnickx | Feb 23 2009, 09:22 AM Post #96 |
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^^ You may thank me ^^
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Thats good news! Invest in some Eagle H-Beam rods, found some a few months back for only around $600 or so (think from Sta?) |
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| pyro3113 | Feb 23 2009, 05:34 PM Post #97 |
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Soccer Mom
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things are looking up leiden! hope things work out well for you glad it wasnt anything more serious. a friend of mine with a neon srt-4 has just put a hole in the side of his block! not pretty... in the end what was it that was keeping u from getting the oil sump off? |
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| Leiden | Feb 23 2009, 07:18 PM Post #98 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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Ok guys need your help again... I'm trying to work out what 3sgte rods I need, or what 'mark numbers' to get. 3 of the rods have '02U' on the side while another one has '02M', all from the same motor. Does this 'U' happen to mean undersized? Should I even be worrying about these codes? On the bottom of the Big End Bearing Cap theres a single digit number, is that the mark number? How do I know which bearings are which, on the ToyoDIY Toyota EPC there is 3 different 'Marks' of bearings listed, I was looking for a mark number on the bearings but the only code I could find on them was 'D9B' whatever that means? Appreciate the help - - - Was 2 more 5mm allen head bolts hidden inside the bell housing, then it was just the crank angle sensor but I manouvered the sump around that and yaya! It came off
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| Leiden | Mar 3 2009, 09:49 PM Post #99 |
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NZ, Whangarei
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She lives! More info tomorrow, I'm having a shower (covered in grease/dirt/oil/cuts/bruises/blisters)
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| Noel | Mar 3 2010, 12:51 PM Post #100 |
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Virtual visitor
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Dammmmmmm .... just found this thread, already had the timing belt break last year and now it looks like i have a bent rod .... getting the same tapping noise but not as loud yet... if i keep driving it whats likely to happen? (don't flame me) i'm still paying off last years bill and frankly don't want to rip it all up again, didn't cut any corners and put in all genuine parts (thanks Nick) and took it to a well respected mechanic who was too busy to give it all his attention so in the end it was 4 months off the road last year, unfortunately no love left at this stage... soooo sick of it
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From Ireland... Drive an RS200Z tiptronic | |
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![]](http://z4.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)
Dude. If you go cutting corners by using second rings and bearings your going to be rebuilding the engine. It's going to cost you more in the long run.


















2:13 AM Jul 12