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Burning Oil On Startup
Topic Started: May 9 2010, 06:50 PM (1,072 Views)
trd.bullitt
Stock
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I have noticed that my car is burning oil (what I presume is oil) when it starts. When I start the car when its cold it lets out a plume of black smoke from the exhaust. Its only on the initial start up when its cold. Just wondering why its doing this?
2000 Black Lexus IS200 Sports Luxury 6MT - Tein Coilovers - HID Xenon 8000K conversion - Alpine ICE Install (half-finished)
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yojimbo
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Hidden Dragon
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It is valve stem seals. Typical toyota problem. Wont cost you any power or reliabillity, or even use a noticable amount of oil.

If it bothers you get em fixed. Parts are cheap, labour is a bitch.
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ShoiezDesign
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If your confident you could do this yourself following the below, or at least see what you mech will need to do ;)

Stolen from the soup forums:
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i pwn n00bs

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Default HOWTO : Replace your valve stem seals

Since the topic of VSS seems to come up quite often I thought I would take a few pics this evening so that you can see what is involved in replacing valve stem seals on a 2JZ. The actual seal replacement is dead simple, its the task of getting to it that is time consuming and therefore costly.

For this example I'll be doing it with the head removed from the engine. There are methods to replace the seals without pulling the head too. To do this the main concern is to avoid dropping a valve into the engine so something must be used to keep the valve supported when the spring and retainer are taken off. Compressed air does the job quite well as this is done by several workshops. Another method is to stuff the cylinder with something like rope to provide a surface to for the valve to rest on.

Tools you need for the valve job are relatively basic, although you will of course need a truckload of additional stuff to remove the head

In short you need

Valve keeper removal and reinstallation tool
Needle nose pliers
Soft faced hammer
Magnetic pickup tool
10mm deep socket or equivalent
Oil can

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Regardless of your approach, you need to get everything out of the way so that you have access to the valve train. Once the cams are off you can see everything in place (hopefully looking clean and shiny).

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Using a magnetic pickup tool, remove the buckets and shims. Remember, with the valvetrain KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER.

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The best way to do that is with tons of little sandwich bags

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Now you can see the valve retainers


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To remove I use a snapon tool that you simply put over the retainer and give it a couple of taps with a soft faced hammer to dislodge the keepers.

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Once they come off they stick to the tool

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As you can see, each valve has one spring, one retainer (flat disc) and two keepers that hold the retainer onto the valve stem

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After this is all removed you can remove the valve. If you are doing it with the head on then you need to make sure that the valve is supported before you release the retainer. Theoretically the valve stem seal should stop it from just dropping through right away but you never know how old and worn the seals might be.

Underneath all this stuff you can see the valve stem seal, its just a little metal and rubber cap that the valve stem slides through

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You can pull it off with some fine nose pliers. Be very careful not to scratch the bucket bore. In fact be careful not to scratch anything anywhere in the head

If you are doing it with the head on, then the valve stem is sort of in a precarious position there and at a risk of being scratched if your pliers slip. In this case you need to buy some proper valve stem seal pliers.

This is what your new VSS look like. I smeared them with a little oil before reassembly

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ShoiezDesign
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The new seals just press in place at the base of the bucket bore. I read a guide on another website and they said that you can do this with your fingers and that you will feel them click into place, well none of this happened. They are very tight and impossible to press with your fingers without them getting all crooked. Just place the new seal in place and use an appropriately sized deep socket to push down on it. I found a 10mm deep socket was a perfect size as it sits on the metal shoulder of the seal without touching any of the rubber. You can press this down or give a couple of very light taps with a rubber hammer (When i say very light i mean hold the head of the hammer in your hand and tap it from a height of 3-4cm. You will feel when it is seated in place and can check with a flashlight that it looks nice and straight.


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Now you can put the valves back in (or not, if you didnt remove them )


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Place the spring in place, then the retainer on top and put the two keepers in position. The keepers are slightly conical so put the small end down.

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Next, using the snapon valve re installation tool you simply press down firmly on the valve keeper until you hear a click. This may not work the first time, if not just remove it and start again.

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When its all clicked back

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Then the bucket can go back in place


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greeneyes
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I'd say its unburnt fuel if it is black and only at startup. How is the fuel consumption? Does it run a bit rich all the time? Maybe you could get an oxygen analyser run over it when cold.

Valve seals would leak more when warm and be noticeable when accelerating after iding, such as leaving traffic lights & especially opening the throttle after running downhill with throttle off.

The vacuum of idle sucks oil down the inlet stems, and the pressure in the exhausts means they don't even need seals.

Worry about it when the guy driving behind complains he can't see or the cost of the oil you're burning gets too expensive! :D

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Maccabro
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beached az!
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black smokes means lots of fuel being burnt, and blue coloured smoke is burning engine oil. if it smokes blue smoke on startup it will be valve guide seals.
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roman
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greeneyes,May 10 2010
10:37 AM
I'd say its unburnt fuel if it is black and only at startup. How is the fuel consumption? Does it run a bit rich all the time? Maybe you could get an oxygen analyser run over it when cold.

Valve seals would leak more when warm and be noticeable when accelerating after iding, such as leaving traffic lights & especially opening the throttle after running downhill with throttle off.

The vacuum of idle sucks oil down the inlet stems, and the pressure in the exhausts means they don't even need seals.

Worry about it when the guy driving behind complains he can't see or the cost of the oil you're burning gets too expensive! :D

You can have valve stem seals leaking ever so slightly, to the point that when you're driving you never even notice.

But when the car has been sitting all night with out being started, it's been dripping oil slowly into the combustion chamber the whole time.

So when you start it up, get a quick puff of smoke as it clears itself.
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yojimbo
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Hidden Dragon
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roman,May 16 2010
01:26 PM
greeneyes,May 10 2010
10:37 AM
I'd say its unburnt fuel if it is black and only at startup.  How is the fuel consumption? Does it run a bit rich all the time?  Maybe you could get an oxygen analyser run over it when cold.

Valve seals would leak more when warm and be noticeable when accelerating after iding, such as leaving traffic lights & especially opening the throttle after running downhill with throttle off.

The vacuum of idle sucks oil down the inlet stems, and the pressure in the exhausts means they don't even need seals.

Worry about it when the guy driving behind complains he can't see or the cost of the oil you're burning gets too expensive!  :D

You can have valve stem seals leaking ever so slightly, to the point that when you're driving you never even notice.

But when the car has been sitting all night with out being started, it's been dripping oil slowly into the combustion chamber the whole time.

So when you start it up, get a quick puff of smoke as it clears itself.

^ this.

Mine does it too. Not worried in the slightest.
Toyota Nats 5 x Top Toyota
Toymods Dyno Day 19 - Killerwatt King
Supra Dyno Day 2015 Outright HP and Torque
11.10@141.34mph (0-400m)
22.048@164mph (0-1000m)

Built by ...
JMR Race Engineering - Toyota Specialist
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trd.bullitt
Stock
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I think it could be the valve stem seals. If it is im not worried. The other thing I thought is could it be running too rich because im putting 98 octane premium into it instead of the normal unleaded.
2000 Black Lexus IS200 Sports Luxury 6MT - Tein Coilovers - HID Xenon 8000K conversion - Alpine ICE Install (half-finished)
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