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How To Do A Manual Conversion; The complete guide for 3gse Altezza
Topic Started: Jun 6 2011, 07:41 PM (13,952 Views)
4TEZNU
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Hey Altezza Club, heres a post I am going to create about doing a manual conversion on your Altezza.

As the years go by and more people wrap Altezza’s around poles and are damaged in natural events such as the Christchurch earthquake I believe it will become more affordable to buy a automatic Altezza and do a manual coversion.

For example, I brought my 1999 Tiptronic Altezza for $5000 back in February 2011, as I got such a good deal on it from a friend it was cheaper to convert to manual than to sell it and buy a manual one.

There is one thing you do need to know, the beams engines have different heads, a manual engine head will give you are 3-5 extra Kw of power over the automatic head, for that reason of cost ($$$$) I used the automatic head, and 4 months down the track I have had no issues.

Step 1) Buy the parts for a Manual Convesion
• Toyota J160 6 Speed Gear Box
• Manual gear box plug – only need the one plug to wire to the existing automatic engine loom
• Manual Gear Box Crossmember
• Manual Pedal Box
• Manual Speedo (Important as the rev limit changes ect)
• Manual ECU
• Flywheel & Clutch Kit
• Gear Box Fluid
• Manual Driveshaft
• Leather gear shifter boot
• 6 Speed Gear Shifter

I brought all this from T Parts in Auckland for $1150 if you want to contact them go to www.tparts.co.nz

When it comes to the parts above I can recommend certain things. Such as:

• Buy a Low KM gear box so has lots of life, check it nicely shifts gears before removed if possible.
• Make sure the manual pedal box springs are good.
• Altezza’s come with a dual mass flywheel from the factory, Toyota charged over 2k for a new kit and fitting. Also the dual mass flywheel makes changing gears very lumpy, I brought a single mass flywheel wheel & a exedy Heavy Duty Clutch off Nick for under a quarter of what Toyota charges, also being heavy duty you can go a bit harder and drives a lot nicer.
• Get a short shifter, the throw in the factory shifter is far too much, driven performance sells them for $125, I went more expensive and brought a C Short shifter from japan as it’s better but any one will really do.

Step 2) When you have all the parts and you are happy with them, it’s a very straight forward swap. The first thing to do is drill a hole through the firewall for the clutch pedal, important to do this step first as cannot be done later on.

Step 3) Drop out the auto gear box & drop in the manual one, making sure to swap over driveshaft’s and gear box cross members. Do not modify the automatic cross member as this is considered structural so you would need a certification if you did that. Using OEM parts requires no cert, saving you hundreds!

I can’t be more descriptive at this point because I got my mechanic to install it for me, but everything is very plug and play as it all just bolts up. If anyone can be more descripted send me a PM with what to put in and I will swap it out.

Step 4) Swap the automatic ECU over for the manual one, I ran the automatic ECU on the manual gearbox for a week, drove like crap, it really needs the manual one, livened up the whole engine. Also the 02 Sensor needs to be re-wired as the manual one & auto one are in different places.

Step 5) Enjoy your manual Altezza!

If you have any questions please send me a PM, I will try pin this topic, but if you have anything that would be good to add or spot an error.

Thanks, good luck any converters!
1999 Toyota Altezza RS200 6MT - Blue

19" Konig Hotwaps, LSD, HKS Headers, TRD Engine Cover, HKS Performance Exhaust, Exedy HD Clutch & Single Mass Flywheel

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greeneyes
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Thanks 4TEZNU

Do you need to fit a spigot bearing?? A little bearing in the back of the crankshaft that holds the front tip of the manual gearbox input shaft in the back of the crank.

Autos don't need them.

We did this on our auto KE70, and changing the pedal box was a dog! Dash had to come out first.. So this sounds much simpler. I did it for the same reason, all the manual KE70s have been thrashed to death by young hoons now, and all the nice ones are autos that granny has owned...
The Girl's KE70-
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/
How NOT to build a rally car-
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027...ld-a-rally-car/
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4TEZNU
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Hey, I'm not really sure, thanks for raising the point, I will ring my mechanic and ask him tomorrow.

Yeah, the same type of thing happened with changing the pedal box in the altezza hence I said do it first, I got manual dash, manual steering wheel and all that put in as well so it had to come off anyway, but yes was told it was a dog of a job!

Yeah, same reason, my car was owned by a great owner, full service history no issues and its just performed wonderfully since the conversion. Bar the maf sensor, but hey thats a generic problem, thanks keith for pinning the topic, much appreciated!
1999 Toyota Altezza RS200 6MT - Blue

19" Konig Hotwaps, LSD, HKS Headers, TRD Engine Cover, HKS Performance Exhaust, Exedy HD Clutch & Single Mass Flywheel

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edwagon
Soccer Mom
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Great writeup, and thanks for the info via PM.

Just a couple of extra bullet points / tips from someone who did this himself:

- Remove the lower dash panel and air vent elbow when fitting up the pedals - it creates plenty of room to work with, Altezza pedals are pretty easy to fit up, but allow plenty of time for this step and don't rush it! Misaligned pedals feel weird and look nasty. You will need a sharp dot punch, holesaw and a deburrer or mini file for this.

- Trans Tunnel on the auto does not have the hump required for the shifter to fit. I cut a small section out and made up a plate so that the shifter boots fitted properly, which added an hour or two to the job but makes for a nice job.

Wiring: Use a manual ECU if at all possible, the auto ecu will be lazy. Mine did not have TRAC and was very easy, only a few wires to connect:
- Shift Position switch on gearbox: Middle pin is power in, the one next to it is reverse, connect these to the Reverse light switch on the manual box.

- Two larger, outer pins on shift pos switch (black and black/stripe) are the park/neutral start switch. Need to connect these so the car will start.

- Wire up the speed sensor. Speedo reading on dash comes from ABS system, but car will be very lazy without the SPD signal to the ecu. Speedo sensor needs +12v, earth and a signal wire. The small middle plug at the ecu (c plug) is not used by the manual ecu and the wires run down to the gearbox loom, so I de-pinned one wire from this and used this as the SPD signal (pin D19) which is an empty space on the D plug - google 'sxe10 pinouts' for diagrams.
Then give the sensor 12v and earth = 12v came from the reverse light switch, and earth from another hijacked wire at the ecu.

- Make sure you have the O2 sensor connected! either reuse the auto front pipe (with cats, ugh) or a manual one and re-wire the O2 sensor plug - manual only uses one o2 sensor (taller skinnier plug without the heavy horizontal bar). Really need this as the car will be doughy and guzzle fuel without it connected.

Remember: "The hard way is the easy way" do things properly and you won't regret it.

Just after I finished the conversion I had a factory manual altezza in for a service, the factory manual had a little more up top, but needed to rev to make the power, where the converted car made its power earlier and then ran out slightly up top, but had just as much 'push in the back' - just a little lower in the revs.


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madaltezza
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greeneyes,Jun 6 2011
10:18 PM

Do you need to fit a spigot bearing?? A little bearing in the back of the crankshaft that holds the front tip of the manual gearbox input shaft in the back of the crank.


the spigot bearing is in the flywheel on the altezzas
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KAPEROMAKO
Soccer Mom
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I had the same job done on my car
But I notice that the MT gauges has 2 plugs instead of 1 like AT
Is there any different installation that I have to do?
I start the car and turn on the light and the car stall and turned off...
the RPM was high and at 3000 rpm has weird detonations...
is there any adaptation that I have to do?
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red_meth
Soccer Mom
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Hi there

Apologies for the BUMP

But just curious, can the same be applied to a 4AT gita? As in from a 4AT to a 6MT (assuming that there are no 5MT in the gita or any altezza for that matter)

But can this be done? At all? Coz the price and rarity of manual altezza gita, it could be cheaper/accessible than hoping to buy a manual altezza that has not done 180k kms+

Any ideas? Thoughts?

Again, sorry for the bump
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Tezz-Winnie
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Cant see why it wouldnt be exactly the same process
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MGtezza
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will update this with alot more detail/pictures this weekend!
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MGtezza
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Parts
j160
Rubber gearbox mount (the alloy cross member is the same between manual and auto)
tail shaft (get one from an altezza not an is200)
clutch kit
flywheel
flywheel bolts
pressure plate bolts
shifter boots and shifter trim pieces
clutch slave and clutch master
clutch master to clutch slave lines
manual ecu
speed sensor plug
manual brake pedal
clutch pedal box

One piece of advice don't use a is200 manual tail shaft as they are actually considerably shorter than the altezza ones


this is with the center bearings lined up

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So this is what I did.
Remove facia around cluster
remove panel under the steering wheel so you can gain access to the foot well for installing the clutch pedal and master

remove vent elbow

you will see where the pedal needs to go as there is a partial cutout done on the underlay up along the firewall.

work out where your holes will need to be drilled

from memory i used a 25-35mm hole saw (just measure the rubber piece of the master cylinder) and a 10-12mm drill bit (again measure the studs on the master cylinder)

you won't be able to fit the master cylinder straight away as it hits the dip stick for the auto transmission.

Remove center console

remove auto shifter box can dissconnect the link from inside the car easily.

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remove exhaust

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remove tail shaft

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unplug as much of the harness as i could

drain transmission oil

remove dip stick

remove cooler lines

undo bottom half of the bell housing bolts

undo gearbox mount and using bulk extensions undo top half of the bell hosing bolts

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undo mounting bracket for starter motor

slide box back and off be careful trans oil will spew from the torque convertor when you do this. also the dowels may make it hard to slide it off. (this is at least a 2 person job if you don't have a transmission jack.)


rotate torque convertor and undo mounting bolts in the space where the starter is as the starter can be folder out of the way

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remove torque convertor

undo 8 bolts holding the starter ring gear onto the crank.


Fit flywheel

fit clutch and pressure plate and line up friction disc

fit master cylinder and clutch pedal

fit clutch master to slave lines

the rest is just a reverse of the removal procedure

do your wiring once the box is in position but not bolted at the cross member.

you will need to nibble a piece out of the trans tunnel for the shifter fork to come through it is fairly obvious with the box in place what needs to be cut!

once you have cut the hole for the gear stick to come through the trans tunnel you will need to pull apart the auto shifter to get the black plastic piece that bolts to the trans tunnel.

This is needed to cover in the hole that you cut up

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apply liberal amounts of sika flex!

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Wiring
You will need the plug for the speed sensor on the box

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the back of the plug is numbered 1-2-3

Pin 1: Power + 12 Volts

Pin 2: Earth

Pin 3: Signal Output (12 Volt Square Wave)



Wire colours from the selector switch:

black and white stripe and black wires are the neutral start switch (join together)
Red and blue = +12V
Red and black= reverse light

connect these 2 to the reverse switch


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wires for speed sensor:
depin wire from ecu plug C you want either c5 or c4 they are the speed sensor wires for the auto (you only need to de-pin one) (they are black and yellow or red and black) this will be the signal wire to the manual ecu.


big red arrow is pointing to the red and black wire from C4 (where the big blue arrow is pointing) plugged into the D19 which is where the manual ecu gets it's speed signal from if you wire it up like this at the ecu it should work!

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get the 12v from the reverse switch

earth the sensor to the gear box

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tech_guy
Soccer Mom
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hi

i am about to convert my altezza to manual.

Do i need a manual ecu or if i wire it up like above i don't need to?

and in the last pic is it the wire u have cut off the plug that gets wired to ground?
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MGtezza
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Don't need the manual ecu but it is highly recommended.......The wire in the last picture is the positive power feed for the reverse switch
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allanmloveday
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Go for a manual ECU, I heard reports that the auto one performs pretty crap with the 6MT box.

I just completed this conversion this weekend so feel free to email if you've got any questions!

I have a manual gearbox mount if you need it (and are in NZ) as I got two.

You might wonder how much to cut out of the transmission tunnel to fit the 6MT in the auto tunnel, it's more than you'd expect, but get a grinder and the metal is pretty soft, so you shouldn't have any trouble. I didn't want to cut a massive hole out so I cut mine roughly to the shape of the shifter:
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Gunmetal Grey 1999 RS200Z
5AT 6MT J160 Transmission
A01A Open Diff A01B LSD Diff
TRD Yellow Front sway Bar

Posted Image
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4TEZNU
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I started with the Auto ECU for 4 weeks, to save money, it drove like a pig! Popped the manual one in and it had heaps more in it. FYI
1999 Toyota Altezza RS200 6MT - Blue

19" Konig Hotwaps, LSD, HKS Headers, TRD Engine Cover, HKS Performance Exhaust, Exedy HD Clutch & Single Mass Flywheel

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Quantum
Soccer Mom
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Have had the J160 conversion done on my 5AT RS200 L edition, everything's sweet so far. Went for a torsen too since the prop had to come out at the same time.

Only thing that was a bit tricky was the speed sensor wiring so I was driving around with a CEL for a few weeks but have since sorted it, ended up chopping out the 5AT 2-wire speed sensor and borrowing those wires for signal and +12V.

Cheers to allanmloveday for some parts and a ton of help!
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TezAltezza
Soccer Mom
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I understand this is old, but would this conversion work for the 1G-FE?
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