| Welcome to Altezza Club Of NZ/Australia. We hope you enjoy your visit. You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. http://s4.zetaboards.com/lexusaltezzaclub/topic/1148393/1/#new |
| Oil Pressure At Startup On Beams 3sge | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 16 2012, 11:39 AM (1,989 Views) | |
| ehendrikd | Aug 16 2012, 11:39 AM Post #1 |
|
Soccer Mom
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Hi everyone I have done an SXE10 Beams 3SGE and J160 conversion into an AE86 and we are currently trying to get it started, however we are currently not seeing any oil pressure. We have not gotten it to idle yet, only kicking a few times, however after priming the oil filter and trying to crank the engine without plugs and the injectors unplugged to build the oil pressure, we are still not seeing anything. I have read that SW20 3SGTEs can take up to 6sec of idling before their oil pressure light turns off, is the situation I am describing typical for the SXE10 3SGE? As in, do you generally only see oil pressure after it starts? Have also read that is may be a stuck oil pressure relief valve, would there be any straight forward (as in not pulling the sump off) way to confirm this? Thanks in advance, Evan |
![]() |
|
| Distrb | Aug 16 2012, 12:59 PM Post #2 |
|
Nuts
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
since the SXE10 3sge does not have an oil pressure light (i assume you know this already) on the dash, the only way you can actually see any oil pressure is getting the motor started as the starter cant generate enough pressure to see it on the gauge. the factory gauge reacts quite slowly as well, so can be a little offputting. but on a cold start, my defi oil pressure gauge gets well up around 60 to 70 psi the instance its crazy start sweep/proceedure is done, so i dont appear to have any delay. possibly worth making your own oil pressure light circuit to test first time? would be way easier than taking the sump off to fiddle with the oil pump |
![]() |
|
| ehendrikd | Aug 16 2012, 01:10 PM Post #3 |
|
Soccer Mom
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Thanks for the reply, we are using a mechanic's specialized oil pressure testing gauge connected directly to the sump where the oil pressure sensor usually connects, which does not appear to show any pressure whilst cranking. It is interesting however that you mention an aftermarket gauge reads pressure nearly instantaneously. |
![]() |
|
| Distrb | Aug 16 2012, 01:16 PM Post #4 |
|
Nuts
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
dumb questions time: is this a completely new engine build, or a second hand/preloved engine? was the oil pump primed with assembly lube/vaseline etc before you started trying to crank it over? oil pump could be dry when you first started trying to generate oil pressure. basic i know, but best to check everything. i would say if you have checked absolutely everything and are using a trusted measuring tool to check for oil pressure, then you're at sump removal and checking pickup/oil pump/relief valve. |
![]() |
|
| ehendrikd | Aug 16 2012, 01:20 PM Post #5 |
|
Soccer Mom
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
It was a superficial rebuilt of an import engine, water pump, timing belt etc. however not much more. The oil pump was not opened or primed before starting to crank the engine. No problem on the basics, I think these are some of the basics I'd like to be aware of. |
![]() |
|
| Distrb | Aug 16 2012, 01:25 PM Post #6 |
|
Nuts
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
do you know what you need to do to prime the oil pump? |
![]() |
|
| ehendrikd | Aug 16 2012, 01:28 PM Post #7 |
|
Soccer Mom
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Unfortunately no, a brief explanation would be most appreciated. |
![]() |
|
| Distrb | Aug 16 2012, 01:39 PM Post #8 |
|
Nuts
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
simple. - remove timing belt covers - remove timing belt - locate oil pump (oil pump is the toothed gear on the bottom left of this picture.) ![]() - Locate and undo the bolts holding the oil pump on (i think 6 or so? - Remove the oil pump being careful to not lose or damage the rubber seal that seals between it and its housing. - get vaseline or moly lube (i used moly lube) and fill oil pump full of lube (not to the point it spews out everywhere when you stick it back into its housing. but enough to fill up the empty space on the inside of the gear. (it will make sense when you have the pump off and hold it in your hand) - reinstall oil pump - reinstall cam belt |
![]() |
|
| ehendrikd | Aug 16 2012, 01:50 PM Post #9 |
|
Soccer Mom
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Thank you for the detailed proceedure, it is greatly appreciated. We will try this during the weekend and let you know how it goes. Cheers Evan |
![]() |
|
| ehendrikd | Aug 19 2012, 11:18 PM Post #10 |
|
Soccer Mom
![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Used a drill on the oil pump gear after taking the cam belt off and oil pressure came up fine within a few seconds. Thanks again for the advice. Cheers Evan |
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Engines • Intakes • Exhausts · Next Topic » |





![]](http://z4.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)




8:39 PM Jul 11